The Rise of HEMA-Free Gel Polishes – Responding to Allergy Concerns

If you spend any time around nail techs, you’ll eventually hear the same story in different versions.

A client who has loved gel manicures for years suddenly develops red, angry skin around the nails. A technician who works six days a week starts to notice tight, itchy fingers that don’t calm down between appointments. Someone switches brands and, almost overnight, their hands look and feel better.

Behind many of these stories is one small but powerful ingredient: HEMA.

This is why more and more brands are now talking about HEMA-free gel polish. It isn’t just marketing language; it’s a direct response to a growing wave of allergy concerns in the industry.

In this article, I’ll walk through what HEMA actually does, why it became a problem, and how brands are re-thinking their formulas to reduce risk without sacrificing performance.

1. What Is HEMA and Why Was It Everywhere?

HEMA stands for 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate. It’s a small, reactive molecule that has been used for years in many nail systems:

• traditional acrylics
• builder gels
• gel polishes
• sometimes even in base coats and primers

Chemically speaking, HEMA is popular because it:

• Improves adhesion – it helps the gel bond strongly to the natural nail plate
• Flows easily – its low molecular weight makes formulas easier to spread
• Cures efficiently under UV/LED lamps, forming a solid network with other monomers and oligomers

From a formulation point of view, HEMA is a bit of a “problem solver”. It makes products stick better and feel more durable, which is exactly what nail professionals want.

So where’s the downside?

2. The Allergy Problem No One Could Ignore

The same small size that makes HEMA so useful is also what makes it risky.

Because HEMA molecules are tiny and highly reactive, they can:

• penetrate the upper layers of the skin more easily
• bind to proteins in the skin and immune cells
• trigger allergic contact dermatitis in susceptible people over time

For years, these reactions were written off as “sensitive skin” or blamed on acetone, disinfectants, or generic “chemicals”. But as gel and acrylic services exploded in popularity—and as DIY kits appeared in homes—dermatologists started seeing more:

• swelling, redness, or blisters around the nail folds
• itching and cracking on the fingertips
• in severe cases, rashes on the face or eyes after touching uncured product

Behind many of these cases was repeated, long-term exposure to ingredients like HEMA, often combined with:

• frequent skin contact (flooded cuticles, product on sidewalls)
• under-curing due to weak lamps or wrong cure times
• poor ventilation and inadequate personal protection for techs

Once someone becomes truly sensitized, their immune system “remembers” HEMA. Even tiny future exposures can trigger a reaction. For a nail tech, that can mean the end of a career they love.

At some point the industry had to stop brushing this aside and ask: Can we do better?

3. Why “Just Use Less” Wasn’t Good Enough

An obvious thought might be: “Why don’t we just reduce the HEMA content?”

In fact, some early “safer” systems did exactly that—formulators tried to keep a small percentage of HEMA to maintain good adhesion but stay under specific limits.

The problem is that allergy doesn’t magically disappear below a certain percentage. For someone who is already sensitized, even trace amounts can be enough to cause a reaction.

And from a brand’s point of view, promising “low HEMA” is a fragile marketing position:

• It sounds safer but is hard to prove in everyday use.
• It doesn’t fully protect sensitive clients or techs.
• It’s easy to misunderstand: consumers may hear “low” as “no risk”, which simply isn’t true.

That’s why the industry conversation has shifted more and more towards “HEMA-free” rather than “low HEMA”.

4. What Does “HEMA-Free” Actually Mean?

On a label, “HEMA-free” usually means the product does not intentionally contain 2-Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate as a raw material.

However, there are a few important details:

1. Other small monomers may still be present. Some HEMA-free products use alternative adhesion monomers that are chemically similar. They might be less common allergens, but they are not magically risk-free.
2. The whole system matters. A HEMA-free base coat used under a color or top coat that still contains HEMA doesn’t give full protection. A true sensitive-skin solution requires a complete HEMA-free system.
3. Cross-contamination is possible. If a factory fills both classic and HEMA-free gels on the same line without strict cleaning procedures, tiny residues can end up in the wrong product. Serious brands invest in cleaning protocols or dedicated equipment for this reason.

In other words: “HEMA-free” is a meaningful step, but it isn’t a license to ignore application technique or safety.

5. How Brands Are Reformulating Without HEMA

Rebuilding gel systems without a key ingredient is not as simple as deleting it from the spreadsheet. Formulators have to replace what HEMA used to provide—mainly adhesion and flow—without creating new problems.

Here are the main strategies brands are using.

5.1 Switching to alternative adhesion monomers

Chemists are exploring other small, reactive molecules that:

• adhere well to the keratin in the nail plate
• are less likely (based on current data) to cause sensitization
• still cure effectively under standard UV/LED lamps

These alternatives might be less aggressive than HEMA, but they usually need careful balancing with:

• slightly thicker oligomers for strength
• flexible components so the coating can move with the nail without cracking

Finding that balance can take many rounds of lab work and salon testing.

5.2 Re-thinking the role of the base coat

In traditional systems, the base coat is often packed with adhesive monomers. In newer HEMA-free designs, the base coat:

• relies more on micro-mechanical grip (anchoring into the very fine roughness of the nail surface)
• uses tailored resin blends to create a flexible, “cushioning” layer
• sometimes combines base and strength (e.g., a rubber base or HEMA-free builder-in-a-bottle overlay)

These products aim to distribute stress across the nail surface and reduce the chance of lifting without extra chemical “aggression”.

5.3 Updating photoinitiators and curing profiles

When one ingredient disappears, the whole curing profile can change. To keep wear time high, brands are:

• adjusting the ratios of photoinitiators so the gel cures fully even in deeper or thicker areas
• testing formulas under modern dual-wavelength LED lamps rather than old UV bulbs
• sometimes recommending slightly longer cure times for safety, especially on darker colors or thicker applications

A well-designed HEMA-free formula should cure completely, leaving minimal unreacted monomer on the surface—another key factor in reducing skin exposure.

5.4 Tuning viscosity and self-leveling

HEMA changes the way a gel flows. Without it, some early HEMA-free products felt:

• too thick and draggy, or
• too runny and prone to flooding cuticles

Brands that take reformulation seriously spend time fine-tuning:

• viscosity for different products (thin base vs. self-leveling builder)
• self-leveling behaviour during the first few seconds after application
• “thixotropy” – gels that move when brushed but stay put when left alone

Nail techs notice these details immediately. A “safe” formula that is unpleasant to work with will not survive in the market, no matter how good the ingredients look on paper.

6. Educating Users: HEMA-Free Is Not a Free Pass

One of the most important—and sometimes uncomfortable—messages brands now share is this:

“Even the best HEMA-free system can cause problems if it is used carelessly.”

Why? Because overexposure still matters.

Here’s how brands and educators are trying to change habits:

6.1 Emphasising “no skin contact”

• Keep a tiny margin away from cuticles and sidewalls.
• Clean up immediately if product touches the skin.
• Use appropriate brushes and working techniques to avoid flooding.

This protects both clients and technicians. Less product on skin means less chance for any monomer, HEMA or not, to cause trouble.

6.2 Insisting on proper curing

• Use lamps that match the system (wavelength and power).
• Follow recommended curing times without shortcuts.
• Replace lamps or check output regularly if using older equipment.

Under-cured gels leave more unreacted monomers near the surface, which can migrate onto skin during wiping, filing, or everyday wear.

6.3 Promoting gloves and barrier creams for professionals

Many techs used to work bare-handed, day after day, for years. Now more brands and educators are pushing:

• thin nitrile gloves during services where product handling is heavy
• avoiding touching uncured product with bare fingers
• cleaning the workstation thoroughly to reduce overall exposure

HEMA-free systems lower one important risk factor; sensible working habits help bring the rest under control.

7. How HEMA-Free Changes Branding and Communication

From a marketing perspective, “HEMA-free” has quickly become a visible label—sometimes used responsibly, sometimes not.

7.1 The positive side

Done well, a HEMA-free line:

• gives allergic or sensitive clients a realistic option to continue enjoying gel nails
• shows technicians that the brand cares about occupational health
• starts a more honest conversation about ingredients instead of hiding behind vague terms like “gentle” or “natural”

It can also be a genuine differentiator for salons that want to specialise in safe, long-wear services.

7.2 The risks of overselling

On the other hand, over-promising is dangerous:

• “Allergy-proof” is not a phrase any responsible brand should use.
• HEMA-free doesn’t guarantee that no one will ever react; people can be allergic to other components too.
• If marketing suggests that technique no longer matters, techs and consumers may relax their safety habits—and end up disappointed.

The most trustworthy brands are the ones that say, in essence:

“Here is what we changed, here is why, and here is how you still need to use the product responsibly.”

8. For Brand Owners: Deciding Whether to Go HEMA-Free

If you’re planning or already building a gel polish line, you’ll eventually face the question:

“Should we go fully HEMA-free?”

There isn’t a single right answer, but here are key points to weigh.

8.1 Target audience

• If you mainly serve professionals who love ultra-strong adhesion, some may still prefer classic systems—at least for certain services.
• If you want to focus on sensitive clients, home users, or regions with strict regulations, HEMA-free becomes very attractive.

8.2 Product range

A fully coherent story means more than one HEMA-free product. Ideally, you would offer:

• HEMA-free base coat(s)
• HEMA-free color gels
• HEMA-free top coats
• Optional HEMA-free builder or reinforcing gels

This lets techs work on a client entirely within the safe system instead of mixing and guessing.

8.3 Testing and messaging

Be prepared to:

• run thorough salon tests to ensure that wear time and usability match your positioning
• train your education team to talk about the system honestly, not sensationally
• update your shade cards, instructions, and website so it’s clear which products are part of the HEMA-free line

Transitioning an existing brand may mean running two systems in parallel for a while, or rolling out HEMA-free products first in segments where demand is strongest.

9. What This Shift Means for Nail Professionals and Clients

For nail techs and salon owners, the rise of HEMA-free systems is both a relief and a responsibility.

• It’s a relief because there are now more choices for clients with a history of reactions.
• It’s a responsibility because you still need to screen clients, follow safe technique, and stay informed about new ingredients and guidelines.

For clients, the key message is:

“If you’ve had issues with gel nails before, there may be better options now—but always discuss it honestly with your nail professional.”

A patch test, a careful consultation, and a technician who understands their products are worth more than any single label on a bottle.

Final Thoughts: Beyond a Buzzword

HEMA-free gel polish is often treated as a marketing trend, but underneath the slogans there is a serious shift happening.

• Chemists are rewriting formulas that worked for years, trading easy shortcuts for safer long-term solutions.
• Brands are being forced to think about technician health, not just color charts.
• Salons and clients are slowly learning that beautiful nails and responsible chemistry can, and should, live together.

Will HEMA disappear completely from the nail industry? Probably not in the immediate future. But its role is shrinking, and the days of ignoring allergy concerns are over.

The brands that will still be respected a decade from now are the ones that accept this reality—and put real effort, not just words, into making their systems as safe, stable, and skin-friendly as they can.